“Surfing is jet fueled mindfulness. There is no time to stop and ponder, to dissect and overthink the circumstance, to strategize what “should” come next. You know what’s coming next? A wave. And after that? Another one, maybe bigger… I have no control. There is no pause button and no fast forward through the challenging or tedious parts. Only an attempt to learn from a power greater than myself. Right when I feel like I’m surfing my best and cockiness starts seeping in, the ocean smacks me hard, humbling me and reminding me that God is infinitely greater than me and my ego.”
-Marigny Goodyear